My Keys to Route Setting

In this book, Jacky Godoffe shares what he calls his ‘keys’ to the craft of routesetting, that he has helped to develop over the years. It is full of tips, advice and questions but no answers, as he likes to say. Through stories and anecdotes he describes many aspects of route setting, sometimes revealing their origins, at other times explaining their purpose.


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The project of this book was also one of collaboration and connection, Jacky never wanted to write a memoir, but to create something that brought people together. During the 3 years it took to write this book, he collaborated with many of the influential setters of the moment. There are essays by Reini Fichtinger, Louie Anderson, Adam Pustelnik, Jan Zbranek, Simon Margon, Chris Danielson, Laurent Laporte and Percy Bishton, each one bringing new insights and perspectives to how route setting can be done.

The photographs came from all over the world and many are from people who are both intimate with the climbing world and professional photographers like Eddy Fowke, Heiko Wilhelm and Marc Daviet. The graphic design is also the work of a setter, Tondé Katiyo, who used his knowledge of setting and of Jacky’s work to create a layout that would express the fickle and creative nature of setting.

Additional Information

256 pages
Black & White
Design: Tondé Katiyo

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My Keys to Route Setting